No purchase is more important than your bird’s cage. The cage is where your pet will spend time when you’re not home, when the family is sleeping, or when you are doing other things and you cannot pay close attention to your pet. The first rule of buying a cage: BUY THE BIGGEST CAGE YOU CAN AFFORD! Although some cages are labeled for a particular type of bird (example: small parrot cage), these cages represent the minimum size to consider – the best bet is to buy at least one size larger than what is recommended. Keep in mind that the cage will seem large until you add bowls, toys, perches, and of course…your bird!
Bar spacing of cage
Be sure the bars of the cage are space properly for your bird’s size. Smaller birds require bars to be closer together than larger birds. Medium size birds such as African greys, eclectus, and Amazon parrots require a bar spacing of about one inch. Smaller birds such as cockatiels require bar spacing of about ½ inch, and the larger birds such as Macaws can have bar spacing up to ¾ inch. It is also a good idea to find a cage that has both horizontal and vertical bars to encourage easier climbing and activity.
Cage size
Be sure the cage available for your bird is of appropriate size. Your bird should have room to spread its wings without hitting the sides. Height is not as important as width when deciding on a cage. You want to be sure there is room for perches, toys, food and water bowls, and of course, your bird! Rule of thumb: buy the largest, safest cage that you can afford. If you have a young bird that is not very confident yet, you may have to start out with a smaller cage, then graduate to a larger cage as your bird matures.
Positioning cage
You want your bird to feel safe and secure in its cage, and your bird should also feel as if it is part of the family. Choose a location where you bird can be adjacent to family activities, but not in the center of them. Position the cage far enough away from a window that direct sun rays don’t fall on your bird and possibly over heat him. It is a good idea to place your bird’s cage near a window so your bird can look out and be entertained.
Substrate
Newspaper is the best lining for your bird’s cage for several reasons. Newspaper is the least expensive substrate you will find, and the easiest to use. By putting several layers on the bottom of the cage, you can just peel off the dirty layers until a fresh layer appears. Newspaper also allows you to view the droppings on a daily basis. Abnormal droppings can be due to medical problems, and are usually the first sign of an illness. By observing your bird’s droppings on a daily basis, you may be able to catch a problem before it gets out of hand and your bird is seriously ill. Other substrates can actually cause health problems. Various wood shavings can cause respiratory problems. Corncob bedding used as a substrate can also cause medical problems. If your bird is able to reach the substrate, the corncob can be accidentally ingested and cause an impaction. Corncob also retains any moisture from the droppings. This damp corncob is prime breeding grounds for bacteria and mold. The bacteria and mold can be inhaled and cause infections. Again, droppings cannot be observed daily in corncob and shavings.
Toys
Toys are an important part of a bird’s life. There are several different types of toys available; you just want to find toys that are the appropriate size for your bird. Some different types of toys include toys made from wood, acrylic, rawhide and rope. These types of toys come in different shapes and sizes as well as forms. There are hanging toys, foot toys, puzzle toys and those that attach to the side of the cage. Keep a variety of toys available at all times. We recommend having about three toys in the cage with your bird at a time, and rotate toys on a weekly to biweekly basis. Birds can get bored with the same toys, which can lead to behavior problems.
Bowls
You will want to have at least three bowls for your bird. One will hold fresh water, and another will hold pellets. The third bowl is for fresh foods such as fruits and vegetables. You do not want to mix fresh foods and pellets due to the fact that pellets can remain in the cage longer than fresh foods. Having a separate bowl will save time and money in the long run. If your bird is the type to make “soup” by mixing food with water, you may have to move the food bowl on the opposite side as the water bowl to make it more difficult for your bird to do this. You also need to be aware of bowls below commonly used perches. If bowls are positioned under perches, your bird may pass droppings in one or more of the bowls. Stainless steel, crockery, or high-impact plastic bowls are good to use. Be sure they are dishwasher safe. Galvanized crocks or bowls are not recommended because they can oxidize, are harder to clean, and pose some toxic risks to your bird. Water bottles are also an option if your bird is properly trained to use one. Be sure the bottle is working properly and your bird can use it before relying solely on a water bottle.
Cage cover
This is a controversial issue. If your bird is an early riser, you may want to invest in a thick dark cover for the cage. This will allow you to sleep in if you would like. It also offers some birds security. Some birds, such as cockatiels, may suffer from “night frights” (thrashing in the cage for some known or unknown reason, usually happening in the dark), and total darkness may not allow them to regain their surroundings if this occurs. Partial covering may be an option if this occurs. If your bird has never been covered, be sure to introduce the cover slowly, as some birds will object. If covering the cage makes your bird uncomfortable for any reason, do not continue.
Perches
Birds need a variety of perches in their cage. The ideal diameter of a perch is to have your bird’s toes wrap about ¾ the way around the perch. Your bird will need to have some variety as far as diameter to help exercise the feet. There are many perches available that fluctuate in size to allow your bird to exercise his feet every time he is on that particular perch. Wood perches are available in the form of dowel rods, but there are also natural wood perches for sale in pet stores, or you can get your own. Most fruit and nut trees (almond, apple, prune and all citrus) are fine to use, as well as ash, elm, dogwood and magnolia. Rope perches give your bird something decent to hold on to and also provide some boredom relief because rope perches are a good plaything. Just remember to keep an eye on any frayed edges than may become tangled around your bird’s toes. Rope perches can also be washed in the washing machine when it becomes dirty. There are also concrete perches available that help file toenails. This type of perch is all right to use as long as it is not in a place that your bird will spend a significant amount of time. Do not make this type of perch the highest one available to your bird, because that is the perch where birds usually sleep. If you have any questions about particular perches, feel free to call us.
Mite protectors
The discs you can buy at pet and grocery stores, which are used to protect your bird against mites, are not recommended. The vapors from these mite protectors can be harmful to your bird’s respiratory system and if needed alternative methods for treating mites are available.
Carrying cage
Small birds do fine when traveling in their permanent cages. Larger birds, however, have a cage that is too large for travel. Avian travel carriers are available through catalogs and web sites. However, a cat carrier is a good, less expensive way to travel with your bird. Perches may be added to give your bird a little more stability while traveling. It is always a good idea to have a carrying cage available in case of an emergency. Allow your bird to have time getting used to the carrying cage before it is needed in an emergency situation. This will make it less stressful to travel with your bird should it become ill.
Most birds have the misfortune of eating in their bathroom and defecating in their kitchen. It is essential to keep a bird’s environment as clean as possible. The bottom of the cage should be lined with a disposable paper such as newspaper or paper towel that can be thrown away every day. Newsprint is free of lead so should be no little concern. White birds that insist on playing in the newspaper may get gray newsprint on their white feathers and this is easily washed off. The sandpaper that is sold in the pet stores to line the bottom of the cage is not recommended. Dirt, dust, fecal matter, bits of food and feather dust accumulate constantly on the cage and everything in it. The entire cage should be scrubbed down at least once weekly with soap and hot water plus a good disinfectant. Most disinfectants should be allowed to sit wet for 30 minutes on the surface being cleaned. A thorough fresh water rinse is always advised after any application of any soap or disinfectant. Food and water dishes should be cleaned in the same fashion and should be washed daily. Wood, wicker and bamboo are porous materials that are impossible to sterilize. Dirt and bacteria can penetrate these substances; therefore it is advisable to replace these items every 6 - 12 months. There are many different kinds of disinfectants available that are capable of killing a variety of germs including viruses, bacteria and fungi. For home use most general disinfectant-deodorizer products are quite adequate. One cup of household chlorine bleach in one gallon of water is effective against many organisms. To be most effective, disinfectants should be applied to a washed surface. For aviary or flock situations a broader range disinfectant may be more beneficial. Discuss your specific needs with us. Many disinfectants need to be used with great care and may release toxic fumes. They must be used in the absence of the bird and with proper ventilation. Remember, rinse well!